The Rocks Remain –
But Rarely Unmoved
The landscapes of Dùthaich MhicAoidh are on a scale which brings perspective to human endeavour and history. Their beauty is breathtaking; their diversity - from the offshore islands warmed by the Gulf Stream to the arctic tundra of the mountain peaks – is intriguing. The effects of latitude are mitigated by the Gulf Stream. Communities at the same latitudes in Labrador and the Baltic have frozen seas and pack ice to contend with every winter. Altitude is equally important. Plants which thrive happily in our sheltered straths or coastal townships cannot cope with the effects of exposure and cold created by high winds and maritime weather patterns hitting the high slopes. In contrast to places like the Alps and the Pyrenees our mountains, the highest of which are not much more than 3,000 feet, would not be considered high at all. Compared to the ‘young’ mountains in the Alps and the Pyrenees this is a very, very ancient landscape. The peaks are lower because they are older and have been changed by earth movements and eroded down by glaciation. It is the combination of latitude and altitude in our hills, combined with their geological and geomorphological history, which has created this unique mosaic of microclimates, habitats, landscapes, seascapes and stories.
A view of Bettyhill showing the glaciated Naver strath , glacial meltwater terraces and raised beach.
Among the high peaks are ptarmagin, eagles and the rare mountain hares. On the slopes below the quartzite mountain tops shrubs, dwarfed and resilient in order to survive the extreme climate, cling on in the face of habitually harsh winds. There alpine bearberry, juniper, cowberry and crowberry are found. On the harsher northern facing slopes an incredible range and abundance of slow growing mosses, lichens and liverworts dominate.
Red deer are very common in Mackay Country on the high slopes in summer and on the lower slopes and inbye ground in winter, the 18th century bard, Rob Donn was very keen on deer hunting and often got into bother over his poaching. After one of his neighbours was evicted for poaching he composed a poem in the form of a debate over the issue:
Tha Hùisdean feumail anns an fhrìth,
Ged ‘s tric MacAoidh ga thionndadh;
Gheibht’ e treun le òrdugh fèin
A’ marbhadh fhèidh san t-samhradh.
Ge chuir sibh ‘m bliadhn’ e dhe na cìochan
Ghabh sibh rian bha meallt’ air,
Le cluich nan cealg chur às an t-sealg
Air fichead marg de Mhalldaidh.
Hugh is useful in the deer forest,
Though the Chief of mackay often turns on him.
He is stalwart with arrangements of his own
For killing deer in the summer.
Though you deprived him this year of deer-hunting,
You have done so in a deceitful manner,
By treacherous tricks, putting him away from hunting
On the twenty merklands of Maldie.[1]
[1] p166 I. Grimble 1993 The World of Rob Donn Saltire Society, Edinburgh
Loch Laxford
Looking inland towards the granite sheets, Ben Stack and Arkle.
Eventually Robb Donn himself was moved out of Glen Golly to Fresgill to try to prevent him from taking so many deer. In his last years it is said that he buried his gun up in the hills. Many people have looked for it but none so far have found it. The Postskerra bard, Hugh MacIntosh composed a tribute to Rob Donn and mentions his gun:
Nach iomadh cruas as ‘n tug I thu,
S tric chuir i pailteas ort,
S dh’fhàg thu ‘n siud i beartach leòr
‘S i Iàn de ghiorr nam mart;
‘S ged iomadh ceum rinn cromadh orra
Bhon chuir thu ‘n geir iad triomh’,
Chan fhaca iad sealladh riamh dhith
Bhon dh’fhaldh i as do laimh.
That musket saw you safe from starvation and ruin
And gave you the plenty that all creatures need –
Now she lies buried in the lard of a cattle beast;
And although many’s the foot’s come down on her since
You put the tallow-fat through her, not a soul
Has glimpsed her since your hand laid her down.[1]
[1] pp 125 – 126 T. Neat and J. MacInnes 1999 The Voice of the Bard Canongate, Edinburgh
[1] pp 125 – 126 T. Neat and J. MacInnes 1999 The Voice of the Bard Canongate, Edinburgh